Inexpensive Hair Care Part 2

As promised, more on inexpensive hair care. So, how about a list of what I consider inexpensive, yet worthwhile hair products. Before I do so I have to make a disclaimer. I firmly believe that some of the more expensive products are better because they tend to give the hair nourishment for longer periods of time. However if you are a frequent washer, then longevity does not matter as much. I am going to try to stay within the $5-$6 range. So here goes!

Shampoo:
Suave Shampoo's $1
Vo5 Shampoo's $1
Mane n' Tail Deep Moisturizing Shampoo $3
Creme of Nature Ultra Nourishing Shampoo $5
Organic Root Stimulator Olive Oil Creamy Aloe Shampoo $5.35

Conditioners:
LeKair Cholesterol $2
Proclaim Cholesterol $2
Organic Root Stimulator Olive Oil Replenishing Pak $2
Silk Elements Megasilk Moisturizing Treatment Pak $2
Lustrasilk Cholesterol $3
Queen Helene Cholesterol $3
Silk Elements Mega Cholesterol Conditioning Treatment $4
Proclaim Aloe & Shea Butter Moisturizing Conditioner $4
Mane n Tail Conditioner $5

Leave-In's:
Herbal Essences Long Term Relationship $3
Infusium 23 Original Formula Leave-In $5
Neutrogena Tripl Moisture Silk Touch Leave-In $6

Moisturizer's:
Herbal Essences Long Term Relationship $3
Elasta QP Mango Butter $5
Profective Mega Growth Anti Breakage Strengthener $5
Hawaiin Silky Miracle Worker 14 n 1 $5
Organic Root Stimulator Shea Butter Lotion $5
Organic Root Stimulator Olive Oil Lotion $5
Organic Root Stimulator Olive Oil Cream $6

Oils:
Vatika Oil $3
Amla Oil $5
Extra Virgin Olive Oil $5

E-mail Response: From Pressed to Relaxed

Q: I have a question about going from pressing my hair to relaxing. Is there a need for a wait period. Do I need to have it washed and then relax in a few days or can I just go ahead and relax if the last time I put a hot comb in my hair was about 1-week ago.

A: Hi!

Thanks for the e-mail! Its always nice to hear from people and to know that someone out there reads the blog.

Well since you have been pressing your hair, you want to be sure that your hair has enough keratin in the bonds of the hair to be able to withstand a relaxer. I would wash: pre-poo with a cheap moisturizing conditioner (my favorite is Suave Humectant), use a clarifying shampoo, and do a hard protein treatment (something like Nexxus Emergence, Aphogee two step, or Eggs and conditioner). Lastly, follow up with a moisturizing deep conditioner and air dry. Then, if you feel that your hair is strong and in good condition, then a week later I would relax.

I hope this helps!

Self Relaxing

I just recieved a comment on my Overprocessing/Underprocessing post. Instead of just commenting back I decided to do a separate post about self relaxing.

I have to say that I neither discourage nor do I endorse self relaxing. Its not something that one should enter into lightly and yet its not incredibly difficult.

When I decided to self relax I did tons and tons of research. I would not reccomend anyone start self relaxing until they have a solid regimen and have really been into haircare for awhile.


Here's a list of the things I found most helpful on the internet:
1). Guide to Safely Applying Chemical Relaers
Another article from Sistaslick (one of my hair idols). She details the steps you should take before relaxing and the dangers.

2)You-Tube Video
This video has great instructions on how to apply a relaxer. I would never use this particular relaxer because it is especially harsh on the hair and as a non-stylist I just won't even try it, nor would I relax as often as she does. However, she explains a lot, she does the entire application on video and she has great commentary throughout.




3) Practice!
Use a thick deep conditioner and pre-poo/practice. I use my light protein treatment (Vitale Hair Mayonnaise), but you can use any thick conditioner. I prefer conditioners in a jar to practice with because that is how the relaxer is packaged. I base my scalp with Vatika oil because that is something I put on my hair each week (I would use an actual base when relaxing aka Vaseline). Then I set the timer and go for it. Use an applicator brush or the back of a comb, just never comb the hair when relaxing. Practice this until you get to your desired time and have figured out what your obstacles are going to be when relaxing. After doing this for a month I was ready.

I also went onto Long Hair Care Forum and looked at as many threads as I could about self relaxing. There is even a self relaxing support thread. So, just keep researching and make sure you have Neutralizer on hand!

As Promised: My Sister's Hair Progress

I adore this picture!

My sister went to the salon and relaxed after a 16 week stretch. The picture below shows her progress in her hair journey thus far. May 12, 2008 she began her journey at neck length with bald spots and thinning hair. Now a little over a year later, June 22, 2009, her hair is at a comfortable healthy APL (armpit length). For all the tall people out there, it is possible! She is 5'11 and her goals take much longer to meet, but its all worth it in the end.

(Click photo to enlarge)

Her goal was to be APL by December 2009, but now that she has met that goal she hopes to be full APL by December 2009. Her ultimate goal was what she calls AL (you figure that out for yourself, lol), but now she just wants to hit waist length by 2012. Since she's so tall that will be quite impressive.

She hopes to stretch again, so stay tuned for updates!

If you would like to read the previous post I wrote about her, which includes her regimen and hair story, click here: My Sister's Progress

Ayurvedic Spritz

Love it!

If you remember I was trying it based on this youtube video's suggestion (No More Pastes)! I use it every morning, usually after my workout (I exercise around 7:30am). I spritz my hair and then I moisturize my ends and style. Its very simple and no sealing is necessary because there is already a good amount of oil in the spritz. Its amazing how moisturizing the spritz really is. My mix contains:

Rosewater infused with Amla and Brahmi Powders
Glycerin
Rosemary Oil
Ylang Ylang Oil
Olive Oil
Water

Yet another good way to get some ayurvedic benefit without making pastes.

Inexpensive Hair Care Pt. 1

Hair Care does not have to be expensive. That initial commitment of funds might seem like a lot, but the products last for a while. Matter of fact- the only really expensive products that I use are deep conditioners. I spare no expense with deep conditioners because they are really what nourishes the hair from the inside out. Otherwise here's the price breakdown of my products, from most expensive to least:

KeraCare Humecto Conditioner 8 oz. $13
Organic Root Stimulator Replenishing Conditioner 23 oz. $13
Coconut Oil 14 oz. $8
Vitale Olive Oil Hair Mayonnaise 30 oz. $8
Organic Root Stimulator Creamy Aloe Shampoo 1.5 oz $6
Aphogee 2 Minute Keratin Reconstructor 16 oz. $6
Amla Oil 500 mL $4
Vatika Oil 150 mL $3
Herbal Essences Long Term Relationship Leave-In 6 oz. $3
Aritha, Brahmi, Shikakai, Amla powders 100gram box $2
Swastik Shikakai Shampoo Bar $2
Roux Porosity Control Corrector Conditioner 1.6 oz. $2

As I said, I spare no expense on deep conditioners. This is because I consider them the most important aspect of haircare.

I buy the coconut oil because it has no smell, lasts me a really long time and is one of the only oils that penetrates the hair shaft. However, now that I have found Vatika oil I will not repurchase Coconut oil because it's the same thing.

The two protein treatments basically give the same results; I just happen to have both, cannot decide between them, and have no reason to stop buying both. They also last months and months.

The Creamy Aloe shampoo is a neutralizing chelater and is also seriously moisturizing. I use it so little that I have had it for at least a year and I still have plenty left. It's a worthwhile buy.

I get soooo much Amla oil for $4! It last me for months and months and months and yet it is only 4 dollars. The Vatika oil is invaluable in my regimen and is only $3. Only a few hair oils penetrate the hair shaft and Vatika oil is the cheapest.

The Herbal essences leave-in is really really cheap and yet is doubles in my regimen as a leave-in and moisturizer. Instead of having to buy two separate products I get both for $3.

The Ayurvedic powders just make my hair very happy and I have not bought any since my January purchase from FNWL. (From Nature with Love) They will continue to probably last me until next year- can't beat that!

The Shikakai Shampoo bar is the cheapest shampoo out there. I dare you to find a shampoo that is less than $2! I have used that soap bar for almost two months now and it is no where near small. It will probably last me another two months in the least.

Lastly, I only use the porosity control once a month, so that is no problem either. My regimen is not the cheapest, but the length of time that I can use the products makes it considerably cheaper than anything else for me.

I will continue to do posts on this subject with cheap alternatives to my expensive deep conditioners and more, so stay tuned!

Where Do I Buy My Products?

I was in the beauty supply store Monday buying something to base my scalp with when I relax soon. The woman working there was telling me that she has been reading my blog and so has her friend who is natural (at the recommendation of my sister while I was out of town) and she just had one question, where do I buy all of my products?

Well of course I've never though of mentioning that before because for some reason I just assume that everyone will miraculously know where to go to buy products, lol. Of couse that is not true especially since I use lots of Ayurvedic products. So here is a list of places I go to buy products.

• Let's start with the Ayurvedic powders and oils.

I buy everything from two places. I get my oils and shampoo bar from my local Indian grocer. They also sell the powders in 100mg boxes, but since I use them so often I buy the powders in bulk. To discover where your local Indian Crocer is check out this website:
Indian Food Guide

When I want to buy powders in bulk or I want to try a butter I go to:
From Nature With Love

You can also buy oils and so much more from them. There are links to the website on the side bar to the right and at the bottom of the page.

Lastly, from Amazon. They sell lots of the Hesh and Dabur brands of the powders and oils. E-mail me for a specific link to a specific product. I usually just type Hesh or Dabur into the search bar and Voila!

• Deep Conditioners

As we know I use KeraCare, Vitale, Aphogee and Organic Root Stimulator. Good news! You can buy Aphogee, Vitale and Organic Root Stimular from your local Sally's and they probably can be found at the other beauty supply stores around your city. They are just that mainstream. I buy the Organic Root Stimulator Replenishing packs form wal-mart as well. KeraCare can be found at your local JCPenny's, salons, and some beauty supply stores carry these lines. If you would like to try some other brands, find your local Trade Secret, they sell so many brands as well.

• Leave-In/Moisturizer

I buy my leave-in from walmart. However not all Wal-Marts carry the Herbal Essences Long Term Relationship Leave-In in large quantities. I always check online, I go specifically to the product: Product Details
and go down to the little box on the right that says find in store. This will tell you which Wal-Marts in your area carry the product and how much of it. I don't usually find this product at Walgreens or CVS for unexplicable reason. The Giovanni direct Leave-In can also be found in some Wal-Marts, but I usually go to my local health food store. The Health food store usually carries lots of natural lines like Giovanni, Jane Carter, Aubrey Organics, etc. When I was natural these products worked best for my hair. These products can also be found at your local Vitamin Shoppe, they carry all of the natural brands as well.

• Glycerin, Essential Oils, Virgin Coconut oil, etc.

I also buy these at my local health food store. I do not use extra virgin coconut oil because I cannot stand the smell, but you can find extra virgin at walmart. Most health food stores carry all of the things that you would need to make your own products like glycerin, essential oils, rose water, humectants, emollients, etc.

I think that's it! To recap I shop at:
Sally beauty supply
Local Indian Grocer
From Nature with Love
Wal-Mart
Local Beauty Supply Store (BSS)
Amazon

Hope this helps!

I'm Such an Idiot! New Moisturizer

So my new moisturizer is my leave-in. I'm not sure why I have never tried my leave-in as a moisturizer seeing as though the directions clearly say use product on wet or dry hair, but I haven't. Anyways, I have been trying Herbal Essences Long Term Relationship as a moisturizer sealed with coconut oil nightly and my hair loves it! Absolutely loves it. The leave-in is not too light, but not runny, so it is perfect. As a result I feel like an idiot. No matter, I am glad I decided to use it. Its perfect!

Relaxer Preparation

OK, so you are getting ready to relax. STOP! Check out these quick tips before relaxing.

1. Only apply chemicals to hair that is in good shape
Relaxing is not a solution to hair problems. If your hair is breaking, a tangled mess, shedding, dry, etc., relaxing will only add to the problem. It will cause the hair to become even weaker which will leave it open to all types of damage. Fix the problem, wait for the hair to return back to normal and then relax.

2. Clarify your hair at least 3 days before relaxing
Clear out any of the dirt and build up from products. This will ensure that no products will interfere with the chemicals involved in the relaxing process.

3. Do a protein treatment a week or two before relaxing
I do a light protein treatment with Aphogee 2 Minute Keratin reconstructor. I would not do a hard protein treatment because it can interfere with the relaxer (not the case for everyone, but for some). If your hair needs a hard protein treatment then you should probably do the treatment and wait another 2-3 weeks before relaxing.

4. Protect your hair and scalp by using a heavy oil
Base your scalp and hairline with a heavy oil. Also, putting a heavy oil on the previously relaxed hair will protect it from any damage from stray relaxer or relaxer runoff.


This is a great article by Sistaslick that goes into more detail about each step in relaxer preparation. She has great insight, read it!!!!! lol

Getting Ready to Relax

For the visual people out there, here is a great video naming some of these same ideas and an explanation as to why. The woman on the video is Gennifer Miller, the founder of healthytextures.com (a site dedicated to educating women about healthy hair, akin to long hair care forum).

No More Pastes

While I love the Ayurvedic powders, I hate the pastes. It is just hard to get some of the powders out and so I am looking for more ways to use the powders. I have used the powders as a tea, but after using the Shikakai shampoo bar I am thinking of using it in some manner similar. So, I have searched and I have found it! I am going to make a liquid shampoo and a hair spritz with the powders. The shampoo will replace the paste in my regimen and the spritz will replace the Aveda damage control spray (after exercise). I am going to follow the directions in this video:



I'll post a review after using them for awhile.

Overprocessing/Underprocessing

As I come up to my relaxer date, I am beginning to think about the thing that led me to doing my own relaxers. I hate going to a salon and watching the stylist apply the relaxer, smooth and then walk away for awhile. This can lead to overprocessing which is never a good thing.

Overprocessing is beyond bone straight. Its that level of hair that is just fried. Some signs of overprocessing are incread breakage, the hair doesn't hold a curl, it doesn't stay straight, its dry, and just plain unmanageable. Most of all the hair is damaged. This type of breakage comes from the scalp, you will be left with short hairs coming from the scalp.

Overlapping the relaxer can also cause previously relaxed hair to become overprocessed. The relaxer should only be applied to the new growth. A stylist should never ever ever pull the relaxer all the way through the hair strand(except when applying a virgin relaxer). I usually put a heavy oil on my already processed hair, so if some relaxer does happen to make its way there it will not be able to overprocess my hair.

On the other hand there is underprocessing. If you had to choose between the two this would be ideal. This just means that you did not reach your desired straightness level and the hair is now a different texture than the rest of the hair. This can be corrected by applying the relaxer just to that area until it reaches the texture of the other hair, but it is very easy to overprocess the hair trying this. Don't forget that the hair was processed, just not all of the way, so do not apply the corrective relaxer as if it is new growth.

Just remember, underprocessing is correctable, overprocessing is not.

I Found It! My New Conditioner!

I have found a new deep conditioner to replace my believed Organic Root Stimulator Replenishing Conditioner. Drum roll please .....................................Keracare Humecto Conditioner. Yes, that is my new deep conditioner. I have used it in three ways as a test and my hair has come out incredibly soft and moisturized every time. I used it after my shikakai shampoo bar, after a hard protein treatment, and after using an ayurvedic paste today. Each time my hair dried soft and happy. I'm sticking with this. Now my regimen is back to being acceptable. I am and have always been on the search for the perfect moisturizer and my next step is going to be to try a couple of butters from fromnaturewithlove.com that are based on what I know to be the best oils for my hair. Until then I will continue to use lotion. Anyways, Keracare Humecto Conditioner is amazing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hair Care Not in My Regimen

There are certain aspects of my haircare that I do not include in my regimen. I do no add them to my written regimen because I do them inconsistently. I wash and moisturize my hair each week consistently, but that is it. I also:

*Do Hard Protein Treatment
I do a hard protein treatment every once in awhile when my hair begins to feels like it is breaking too easily. This happens every two to three months. Its not a sign that I am doing any thing wrong within my normal regimen, but instead I am doing things right by keeping moisture in my hair. For this treatment I mix 2 eggs and a cheap runny conditioner after clarifying.

*Use Roux Porosity Control
I use this to be sure that my hair is getting every benefit it can from the products that I use. This product controls the PH level of the hair. It ensures that a balance between protein and moisture remains level, which is essentially what you are trying to do with all of your other products. I do this about once a month. Tip: You can also use Apple Cider Vinegar as an agent for controlling the porosity of your hair.

*Chelate
I use my ORS Creamy Aloe Shampoo to chelate. This step is used to remove any calcium buildup, iron or whatever else there is from water. I used this when I came back from my trip just in case the water was jacked up, but I usually only use it the week after my relaxer.

I generally just listen to my hair and do these things accordingly. None of these should be done regularly with the exception of the Porosity Control. It can be used often without issues.