Dr. Ali N. Syed: How Relaxers Work

Gennifer Miller of the hair blog Healthy Textures interviewed Dr. Ali N. Syed from Avlon Organics (makers of Keracare products). In this interview, Dr. Syed does a fantastic job of explaining how relaxers work in lamens terms. He does a fantastic job explaining the difference between no-lye and lye relaxers and what to look out for when applying a no-lye relaxer. ALL Self-Relaxers should listen to this video, but everyone, relaxed or natural, should listen to this video to truly be informed about relaxers.



Dr. Ali Syed, also has a website outlining the effects of many other products like BKT, Keracare products, and more. Be sure to check it out as well.

Hair Growth Cycle

Do you know how your hair reacts to the seasons through out the year? Everyone has a resting period, where their hair does not grow. A period of time where they see slow growth and instead an increase in thickness, and everyone gets a growth spurt.

Learning when these things happen can help maximize the potential for retaining the length and thickness of your hair with every season. Knowing this ensures that I am never disappointed with my growth because I know when it will occur. My growth cylce goes like this:

Winter=Increase in thickness
Spring=Growth increase
Summer=Growth spurt
Fall=Resting

In the Winter I usually wear my hair in big-hair friendly styles (like braid outs, twist outs, bun with two sections, etc.). I also detangle once or twice a week. I am not concerned about thining my hair with excess combing because it is always soo big in the winter. My hair is drier during this season due to the cold, so I try to use butters as they are heavier than just oil.

In Spring I usually enjoy my hair for a bit with rollersets or whatever style hits my fancy. I know that I will have a good amount of new growth, but not so much that I have to stick to textured styles only. This is the season where I can experiment with styles and not worry about damaging my hair.

In the Summer my new growth hits with a vengence. I amp up my deep conditioning and co-washing and I usually stick with textured styles. I religiously do protein treatments to ensure that there is no breakage at the demarcation line and I do not use a lot of prouct. Usually this stretch consists solely of braid-outs, twist-outs, bantu knot-outs in different forms. I try to finger detangle daily to ensure that on my wash days the detangling process is not too bad. I am as gentle as possible when detangling, (oftentimes separating each hair strand from the other before detangling) to ensure breakage does not occur due to the two fighting textures.

In Fall I turn back to protective styling. Since my hair is resting and is not growing at all, I try to protect all the length and thickness that I have retained that year by protective styling. I ensure that I take my vitamins daily and drink plenty of water, changing my focus from external to internal.

Knowing my hair tendencies is truly the best way to retain length and optimize growth. Each season I truly just respond to what my hair needs, but I keep these observations in mind when making decisions.

Update

So I am 8 weeks post and I just realized that I have been bunning it like a mad woman and I did not even realize it. I have not even used direct heat and I do not miss it!

As a result, I am putting myself on a no heat challenge for the year! I also plan to only do wet hair length checks this year. At the end of the year I hope to be pleasantly surprised by my growth. This will last December 23, 2009-December 23, 2010. That is right, a whole year.

This is going to be difficult and I must stay strong. No rollersets, no blowdrying and no flat ironing, but most everything else goes. I give myself no passes.

I am sure there will be inspiration threads galore throughout this year.

Wish me luck!

My Regimen Explained: Co-Wash

At the moment, I do not conditioner wash frequently. Sometimes at different points in the year, I will co-wash one to three times a week just depending on what my hair needs. Otherwise I co-wash in response to the weather. Hot months can equal dirtier hair and since I continue to exercise frequently regardless of the season co-washing can be a simple way to get rid of some dirt without using cleansing agents frequently.

Right now I am co-washing once a week after shampooing. Since I deep condition on dry hair before cleansing, I like to co-wash after just to be sure all of the cleanser is gone and to give my hair a shot of moisture or strength.

That is really it! Short, simple and sweet.

What I Look for in a Deep Conditioner

Here are the questions I ask myself when searching for a good deep conditioning product.

1. Is the conditioner thick or thin?
I prefer thick conditioners, but in the end that really does not matter.

2. Do you have to use a lot or a little DC for the product to do its job?
This can become a very important question. Are you going through so much product that the price is way too much? Is it really doing its job if you have to use the whole jar/bottle to make it work?

3. Do you like the product ingredients?
I have found many products that work, but have mineral oil, sulfates or cones. Those three ingredients are often not good for your hair in the long term. If you do choose to use a deep conditioner with these ingredients, what steps are you going to take to counteract their effect on your hair?

4. Does the conditioner leave your hair detangled, the same as before you applied, or a tangled mess?
If it leaves your hair tangled, get rid of it! Otherwise, as long as your hair is not tangled, I would keep it. However, if you are looking for a DC and detangling product in one, then your search may not be over.

5. Does your hair feel soft when dry?
Soft hair when dry is a must! Dealing with dry hair leads to breakage. Even protein conditioners should not leave your hair dry (that means your hair did not need the protein).

6. Does the effect of the conditioner last at least a week?
So very important. If your hair is feeling less than great two days after Deep Conditioning then your hair really is not deep conditioned. The effect of a deep conditioner should not be temporary, but instead long lasting. Your leave-in and moisturizer are just an aid in retaining moisture and strength, not the main source of nutrients.

7. Does the price outweigh the results?
This for me is always a question. I love many really expensive deep conditioners, but I just cannot see myself spending a ton of money on a conditioner as a student on a budget. I am at the point in life where I need to save, save, save; so why would I go and spend a ton of money on conditioner when I can find just as good conditioners that are less expensive.

8. Does the smell agree with your nose?
I personally cannot continue to use a product that makes me feel nauseous due to smell. No matter how good a product may be, if you cannot stomach the smell, then is it worth it?

Those are my criteria and they are harder to meet than one might think. There are so many so called deep conditioners on the market and often times trying them is the only way to determine their worth. However, once you do find that holy grail product, your hair will thank you forever!

Cones: From a Scientific Standpoint

When I was contemplating using products with cones years ago I decided to do some research. I wanted to really know in scientific terms why cones were bad for my hair.

Non-scientifically, cones can build up on the hair and block other products from penetrating the hair shaft. As a result you have to frequently use a clarifier that is strong enough to stop this cone build-up, thus allowing moisturizing and strengthening products to penetrate the hair shaft. But that is not really scientific.

The real scientific thing that I learned about why cones do not just soak into the hair like your leave-in's, deep conditioners and other non-cone products is simple. It has everything to do with water solubility.

To explain this I am going to use a vitamin analogy: Water-Soluble vitamins are not stored in the body and must be replaced. Which is why we have to constantly eat foods that replenish those vitamins.

Well, its the same with hair. Water soluble products are not stored in the hair, so every week we replenish the "vitamins" in our hair with products. Cones are not water soluble, and at the same time not blocking "vitamins." So, they make the hair feel great for awhile, but they do not provide the necessary nutrients that the hair needs to remain healthy. Instead they block out these nutrients over time.

So, if you do use cones, make sure you use water soluble cones. That way they are still contributing to the health of your hair and at the same time are not blocking out the other "vitamins" that other products give your hair.

You may be asking, how am I supposed to know which cones are water soluble? Well, I found a list a couple years ago telling this exact thing.

Amodimethicone - not soluble in water by itself

Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-12 (and) Cetrimonium Chloride - mixture that is soluble in water in the bottle*

Behenoxy Dimethicone - sparingly soluble in water

Cetearyl methicone - not soluble in water

Cetyl Dimethicone - not soluble in water

Cyclomethicone - not soluble in water

Cyclopentasiloxane - not soluble in water

Dimethicone- not soluble in water

Dimethicone Copolyol- water soluble**

Dimethiconol- not soluble in water

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Hydroxypropyl Polysiloxane - water soluble

Stearoxy Dimethicone - sparingly soluble in water

Stearyl Dimethicone - not soluble in water

Trimethylsilylamodimethicone - not soluble in water

Lauryl methicone copolyol - water soluble

PEG-12 dimethicone - Water soluble silicone, transient conditioning

PEG-8 dimethicone - Water soluble silicone, high molecular weight

Phenyl Trimethicone - not soluble in water

PEG-modified dimethicone – water soluble

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*"Amodimethicone is never water soluble after being applied to your hair. It clings like any other silicone that is not water soluble.”

** Dimethicone Copolyol is a general term used for a group of polymers made from dimethicone and polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene. The following specific names for these polymers may be found on product labels: Dimethicone PEG-8 Adipate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/23 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 Phosphate, PEG-3 Dimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-6/11 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-8/14 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-15/15 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-16/2 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/6 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/23 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/29 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/23 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/24 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-23/6 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-25/25 Dimethicone and PEG/PPG-27/27 Dimethicone.

Drawn from: Long Hair Community
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I truly hope this post made since. Please feel free to ask me to clarify anything and I will do my best to explain.

My Regimen Explained: Protein Conditioner

This is another simple aspect of my regimen. I do necessary to ensure that my hair remains strong. Only is my hair breaks easily or sheds too much. If I use heat I will use the protein treatment the wash the week after I use heat. This ensures that any breakdown in strength that occurs through heat usage is restored.

I use Aubrey Organics Glycogen Protein Balancing Conditioner for my protein treatments. It uses milk protein, organic aloe, horsetail and glycoprotein to strengthen and repair.

I do not use heat often, so I don't worry about doing hard protein treatments. My hair is strong and does not lose its strength very fast, which I contribute to using coconut oil regularly as well as faithfully doing a protein treatment once a month (in place of the co-wash conditioner in my regimen).

Henna also strengthens my hair in a more artificial way, it does not repair the actual keratin bonds in the hair, but it does temporarily strengthens the hair. In an attempt to simplify my regimen and to just cut out the mess I have stopped using henna, but I still recommend it to those who want to use it.

I Drove 40 minutes to the Post Office......

So, I ordered the Vatika Enriched Almond Oil on ebay from India. I could not find the ingredients on the net ANYWHERE. I figured it would be similar to the Vatika enriched coconut oil, so I took a chance.

I waited 3 weeks for it to arrive.

I drove 40 minutes to the Post Oiffice.




It is 75% mineral oil.

With a splish-splash of almond oil and other extracts.